City Guide: Mexico City
Welcome to the All Roads City Guides—a new series where we share our favorite independent, local businesses in cities we love. We’re big believers in shopping small wherever you are. Whether you’re just passing through or planting roots, the best way to get to know a place is by supporting the folks who’ve put their heart into it.
Our favorite thing to do in Mexico City is to walk around and eat our way through the day. There’s no shortage of fancy restaurants now in the great Cuauhtémoc, and plenty of guide recommendations for those, so we’re going to fill you in on ones you might not have heard of that have a more casual vibe.
There are multiple locations, but Ojo is usually our first breakfast when arriving in CDMX. They offer fresh juices, smoothies, traditional breakfast options, and pastries & bread.
Expendio is a very special place. The open-air kitchen feels relaxed and unpretentious, with just four tables set out on the sidewalk. Recently awarded a Michelin Star, it sources fresh ingredients directly from local farmers. There’s no menu—when you sit down, they ask about any allergies or preferences, then cook what they choose, serving one plate at a time. When you’re full, you simply say stop. The food is always delicious, typically corn-based, and features thick tortillas at its center. We like to go for breakfast to beat the crowds.
A few steps down leads you into this tiny tamale spot, where a single communal table takes up most of the room. The pared-back interior has a Japanese-inspired feel, and the tamales themselves are truly special. Each one comes with thoughtful flavor pairings and sauces that feel elevated, plus sweet tamales for dessert. It’s one of our favorite places for lunch.
Out in the Pedregál neighborhood, this restaurant sits in a former horse stable designed by famed architect Luis Barragán. If you plan ahead, you can also book a tour of the neighboring Barragán home, Casa Pedregál—our favorite of all his sites we’ve visited. Since it’s still a private residence, reservations are essential. Inside Tetetlán, you’ll also find a small but wonderful shop worth a browse.
Chances are, Rosetta Bakery (and their restaurant, Rosetta) is on your list. I am here to tell you it is famous for a reason. I wait in line simply for one thing—their Figure 8 pastry with fruit jam and egg custard. I think about it often!
After tamales, head around the corner to our friends’ shop. They’re designers who source the best versions of traditional Mexican craft from local artisans. The shelves are filled with everyday essentials and utilitarian pieces that feel cool, modern, and timeless. We especially love their enamel dishware and textiles.
Down the street from UM is a concept perfume store hidden behind a beautiful garden. Inside the round glass-and-wood space, each fragrance is paired with a display of the plants that make it. The whole experience feels serene, and it’s fascinating to learn about the regional botanicals behind the scents.
Diego Rivera built this monolithic museum to house all of his pre-Columbian artifacts. Made from black volcanic rock, it feels like a dark cave in some of the rooms.
We had never even been to a listening bar before, so it was fun to have our first time be in CDMX. It was an unexpected experience, but we enjoyed listening to a full album out of a wall-sized stereo in a dark room with red velvet decor.